Submited By: Chris Brain on 05/12/2010
Smooth, frictionless feed and easy to use are the phrases that sum up this device accurately. It is really easy to use and unmatched in how easy it is to feed the rope to a leader and lower down a climber. It has been the industry standard belay device for years and it is clear to see why, with its simplicity and lack of gimmicks, becoming a benchmark for all belays to be measured by. However with single ropes less than 10mm becoming the norm and half ropes down to 8mm being used more regularly it really doesn’t cut it as an all round device for the modern climber. It simply doesn’t have enough friction for use with ropes below 10mm and can often feel hard work with these thinner ropes. However I do know many people that swear by them as their all round device, so I suppose its just what feels best for you. This is potentially the most widely used belay plate across the globe and its easy to see why, but in my opinion it has been surpassed in some aspects by more modern devices which offer higher friction potential.
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