Submited By: Dan Fox on 14/11/2010
I thought I'd get a set of these to save money buying cams/friends. I've climbed with them a few times on differing granites and I like them a lot. They hold firm when you get the placement right and instill confidence. In short, I trust them and they're worth having.
But it is worth bearing in mind that they don't do away with cams/friends, or nuts for that matter; they usually take slightly longer to place than other gear and can sometimes be a bit fiddly. With practice you get faster, and they do fit in some spaces where nuts don't and cams/friends feel a little awkward. In other words, as much as I wish they did away with mechanical cams, they don't. Sometimes when you're hanging and you only have a few seconds of strength left in which to place a piece of gear, only a cam/friend will do.
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