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The Petzl Reverso 3 is an ultra light, multi-purpose belay/rappel device, with range of friction adapted to different rope The Reverso 3 multi-purpose belay/rappel device is lightweight and easy to use. The asymmetric V-shaped grooved friction channels regulate the amount of braking friction on the rope according to its diameter and condition. - Ultra-light design:
- minimalist construction
- hot-forged aluminum
- 72 g
- A single device for all rope types:
- effective braking on half and twin ropes ≥ 7,5 mm
- effective braking on single ropes ≥ 8,9 mm
- can belay the leader, one or two seconding climbers and can be used for rappelling
- independent and simultaneous belaying of one or two seconding climbers in Reverso mode
- quick change-overs from Reverso mode to belaying the leader when climbing multi-pitch routes
- V-shaped friction channels:
- increased friction on thin ropes
- friction is adapted for larger diameter ropes
- increased holding power in Reverso mode
- Asymmetrically grooved sidewalls:
- increased braking power during a leader or top rope fall or while rappelling
- rope smoothly slides through device when taking up slack
- Carabiner hole to release device when loaded in Reverso mode: allows the loaded device in Reverso mode to be easily and gradually released with only a carabiner
- Rope friendly:
- will not kink the ropes regardless of the mode used
- separates the two strands of rope when belaying and rappelling
- Intuitive:
- Reverso mode attachment point is easy to identify
- keeper cable keeps the device from moving up the rope when belaying and reduces chances of losing the device
- usage diagrams (standard belay and Reverso modes) engraved on device.
Technical specificationsFor use on single ropes (≥ 8,9 mm), half and twin ropes (≥ 7,5 mm)
Weight: 77 g
Hot forged aluminum body
Available in 3 colors:
- green, D17 G
- blue, D17 B
- titanium, D17 T
3-year guarantee
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Submited By: Chris Brain on 05/12/2010
Having owned one of the older versions of the reverso, I can honestly say that this is a major rethink of the device and performs vastly better than the older version did. This device is very similar to the black diamond guide, but is lighter, more compact and the overall action seems much smoother. I have used this device on all ropes ranging from 8.6 halfs to thin single ropes to chunky climbing wall ropes and can honestly say that it performs well on them all. When using half ropes and thin singes, the feed is frictionless and very easy, yet locks solidly when holding a falling climber. The V grooves give great friction and are really one of the best and most well designed features of the device. What makes them different to other grooved devices is the angle at which the rope enters the device and how much the rope is pulled into the grooves. With ropes up to about 9.4mm the rope is pulled firmly through the grooves and creates a lot of friction. However as the rope diameter increases the angle of entry changes and the rope is pulled through the grooves less, meaning that when you are using a climbing wall rope or abseiling a thick line there is a perfect amount of friction, and your not stuck because there is too much. One of the other major aspects to this device is the autoblock feature for bringing up seconds. Again, this works effortlessly on thinner ropes, but is a bit harder work on thicker ropes. The autoblock is easy to release with a karabiner (easier than the BD guide), but as always read the instuctions and practice before you use it out on the rock. I used to use several devices for belaying with different diameters of ropes and with different partners, but now I just use this for all my trad climbing. Petzl have done it again, hands down the best device of its style on the market.
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Submited By: Caj Fors-Klingenberg on 03/12/2010
Even though the Reverso 3 is lightweight and comes in nice colours, I wish I had bought the BD ATC Guide instead. The Reverso 3 does its job. Feeding the rope, taking up slack and rappelling is smooth with different diameter ropes (even 10.5 mm), but there are a few problems.
When belaying a leader, the rope on the brake hand side easily slips to the side instead of running through the grooves. With 10.5 mm single or 9 mm double ropes there’s enough friction anyway but I’m not comfortable using this device with thin ropes. I always prefer my ATC XP when I don’t need the autoblock.
Belaying the second(s) directly from the anchor in reverso mode (autoblock) works well, but the Reverso 3 doesn’t orient itself optimally. You’ll often have either the rope or the brake bar carabiner facing the wall. Bear in mind that the carabiner must be able to move freely. The anchor attachment point on the ATC Guide is oriented the other way (by 90 degrees), which I personally think is a better solution. It means the rope and the carabiner are usually turned to the sides. On the other hand, if you have lots of carabiners clipped to your master point, the Reverso 3 will probably fit better between the other gear.
If you’re buying your first belay device you may think that you don’t need the autoblock option, but you may want it later if you start climbing multi-pitch routes.
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Submited By: Hannah Mueller on 24/11/2010
This is by far the best belaying tube I've used. It has a great deal of friction, so it'd be pretty easy to hold the rope with just one hand if sb was reckless enough to do it. What's more, it's fairly easy to give out or take in rope with the Reverso. Even old, fringy or comparably thick ropes don't block it.
Since it's a double tube you can use it for abseiling, too. The loop at the back allows to belay up to two seconding followers, so it comes in really handy and it looks quite cool, too! Some of my friends noticed that the colour started to come off at the friction surface after about a year, but I guess that's in the nature of the beast. I've been using the one in titanium grey for two years now, and it still looks brand new.
It may be quite expensive compared to other belaying tubes, but then it's universally usable. I've tried the Black Diamond ATC Guide, too (which is in the same price range), and its handling is well beaten by the Reverso. If you're looking for an allrounder, go and get it!
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