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Mega Jul

P1925Z
(21)
$27.38
$39.42

The Edelrid Mega Jul is a pretty special bit of kit. You can use it just like a standard belay device and it is safe to use with ropes from 7.8mm - 10.5mm diameter. An innovative bit of design means that the Mega Jul auto-locks when the climber falls, once locked you can lower them by releasing the rope a little with your thumb. Check out the videos below to see it in action.

6 in stock

Video reviews

Testing the Mega Jul

Submitted by Visitor

Mega Jul Review

Submitted by Visitor

Using the Edelrid Mega Jul

Submitted by Visitor

The Edelrid Mega Jul is a pretty special bit of kit. You can use it just like a standard belay device and it is safe to use with ropes from 7.8mm - 10.5mm diameter. An innovative bit of design means that the Mega Jul auto-locks when the climber falls, once locked you can lower them by releasing the rope a little with your thumb. Check out the videos below to see it in action.

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Video reviews

Testing the Mega Jul

Submitted by Visitor

Mega Jul Review

Submitted by Visitor

Using the Edelrid Mega Jul

Submitted by Visitor

Reviews & ratings

Average rating

Based on 21 ratings
4.43

Product reviews (5)

Rich  Jos
Rich Jos
Sep 25, 2016

The Megajul is made from stainless steel. Whenever you weight the device, its contact with an aluminium belay crab will gradually build up bite marks producing sharp edges. Edelrid recommend using with the HMS Bruce Force FG carabiner which is also stee and will cope with MJ potential to wear biners, so i don't understand why they bother trying to sell this package with the HMS strike, which is aluminium.

If you use the device in guide mode, for the same reasons it would be best to use a 2nd steel carabiner to hang the set up on.

The Megajul can be a bit grabby when paying slack out to a leader. It takes some getting used to.

For abseling i would say it is terrible! I tried it on 10mm rope and 9.5mm.
Ok.... it works fine to descend in tuber mode, but if you are pulling gear, went a bit too far, or missed something, and just want to pull yourself back up a few feet, you will find it very difficult, you can do it, there is a knack, but it will compromise yr safety. Where u can use your feet on the rock to push up with, whilst you use yr lower hand to lift the device to loosen it on the ropes to pull some rope through, and sap yr energy if you want to ascend say just 10ft, and be a complete PITA.
Any other tuber device you can, with yr feet on rock, i.e. if the crag isn't steep, only slightly off verical or so, normally you can bend legs push with feet and pull some rope from above through, to shunt back up a bit, but not with MJ...!
Abseiling in locking mode, is pretty bad!.. first find a biner that fits the eye, but stops going all the way through so you will be able to apply some levering force to it ( preferably snapgate not locking type, as the fatter lock part of biner would then in the way of ropes) .. Edelrid say their "pure" snapgate has been "optimised" for this eye, so why don't they supply MJ with Pure snapgate (+ steel hms...! ).
U could get really really annoyed finding it doesn't work very well if at all... Unlocking using a levering carabiner just didn't work for me, i weigh 10 stone, if that matters?
Be warned about that!
I think megajul is okayish for lead belay.
Haven't tested it in guide mode nor with double ropes for trad.

Gary Barclay
Gary Barclay
Jan 13, 2015

Love this device...mostly.
Belaying is a breeze, device locks quickly and consistently. I do find that, when bringing the guide rope to tension, the device drops down, which makes it somewhat cumbersome to maintain one hand on the brake rope at all times. I find myself having to resist the urge to just let go of the brake rope and pull through again. Don't let those bad habits set in!

My biggest problem with this device is bringing the climber down. Depending on the rope this can be jerky eratic. The tipping point at which the lock releases and the rope starts to move freely through the device is often down to a couple of mms. This makes it very difficult to control. In addition if there are any loops, these tend to cause problems too.

For leading climbing, all the above applies and in addition, feeding rope to lead is straightforward and easy.

I know this device has various other capabilities but I haven't tested those yet.

Anony Mouse.
Anony Mouse.
Aug 12, 2014

Takes a good few pitches to get used to, but once you do it's fantastic! Lowering in particular is a bit of a bitch to do cleanly until you've got it figured out. For abseiling turning the device around so the thumb loop faces you turns it into a standard tubular device and the friction is really good. For bringing up a second it works really well. For thinner ropes I use this over a grigri2 in most situations.

Oliver Heyes
Oliver Heyes
Mar 07, 2014

Best belay device I have ever used, possibly the biggest advancement in safety since the fig.8 was superseded. Autolocking function works well, releasing the rope once locked is not a problem. Used as a guide plate it saves time on multipitch routes. I would recommend using a carabiner to assist lowering and abseil rather than tilting it by hand as this allows greater control and less jerky lowering with thicker ropes.

Edwin  De Jong
Edwin De Jong
Feb 24, 2014

Great little belay device. One warning. Do not use it in combination with a DMM belay master carabiner. The plastic in the carabiner will prevent the mega jull from turning in case of a fall. The device will probably not block the rope in some cases. With a normal carabiner it does work 100%.

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