Genius
The La Sportiva Genius, ridiculous name, great shoe. These are basically a lace up version of the futura but the addition of laces makes these a great choice for those looking for a more precise fit or have a lower volume foot. No Edge Technology ensures your toes are always as close to the rock as possible and when combined with the 3mm Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber they offer incredible sensitivity. The P3 midsole ensures power is always pushed toward the toes and the downturned profile of the shoe is not lost over time.
Details:
• No-Edge™ Technology delivers unparalleled edging performance on the rock • P3® patented technology delivers mind-bending power • Lace-up comfort makes this shoe fit every type of foot • LAST: PD 85 • CONSTRUCTION: Slip lasted • UPPER: Suede leather / Microfiber • LINING: Unlined • MIDSOLE: 1.1mm LaspoFlex with P3® • SOLE: 3mm Vibram® XS Grip2™
How I choose the correct size?
All climbing shoe models fit differently. We put together our 'shoeculator' to help you find the right size in a new model, compared to your old climbing shoes or street shoes.
This sizing advice is based on two pairs of brand new shoes. Leather shoes tend to stretch more than synthetic shoes. When switching from synthetic to leather you may want to select a smaller size.
The La Sportiva Genius, ridiculous name, great shoe. These are basically a lace up version of the futura but the addition of laces makes these a great choice for those looking for a more precise fit or have a lower volume foot. No Edge Technology ensures your toes are always as close to the rock as possible and when combined with the 3mm Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber they offer incredible sensitivity. The P3 midsole ensures power is always pushed toward the toes and the downturned profile of the shoe is not lost over time.
Details:
• No-Edge™ Technology delivers unparalleled edging performance on the rock • P3® patented technology delivers mind-bending power • Lace-up comfort makes this shoe fit every type of foot • LAST: PD 85 • CONSTRUCTION: Slip lasted • UPPER: Suede leather / Microfiber • LINING: Unlined • MIDSOLE: 1.1mm LaspoFlex with P3® • SOLE: 3mm Vibram® XS Grip2™
Got a question about this product?
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Video reviews
No Edge Technology Explained by Sportiva
Neil Gresham Genius Review
La Sportiva Genius Video Review
Reviews & ratings
Product reviews (5)
Great shoes, super sensitive
I sized down from my shoe size (UK6) to a 5, and this was plenty tight without being unbearably painful. This was a half size down from my Women's Scarpa Vapor V shoes. Have worn once at the gym and they feel good, aggressively curved and noticeably different from shoes with a traditional edge. Much more sensitivity. Not sure yet if this will be a benefit, but it feels reassuring to properly feel the footholds, and I could place my feet more precisely. Very pleased!
A quick note on sizing: I wear 41 in Miura, 40 in Miura VS, 40.5 in TC Pro, 41 in Futura.
I purchased these in the 40.5 and initially when I put them on, I feared I had bought them too tight. Other reviews mentioned how comfortable these felt straight out of the box, but that wasn't my experience. They pushed down on every knuckle of my toes on both feet, leaving marks/bruising on the toes that continued to be painful for the entire day. I was seriously worried that I had made an expensive mistake in getting these shoes.
After wearing them for 4 hours total (broken up over a few sessions), they have become super comfortable. The difference is remarkable.
I have done a couple of tests with them and the no-edge actually makes a marked difference in the ability to stand on _1cm downward sloping edges compared to both the TC Pro and the Miura VS. I have a sloped piece of painted wood, about 1cm deep that I tested all three of these shoes on. The TC Pro kept me on the edge for 10 sec before I slipped off. The Miura VS surprisingly only kept me on for an average of 8 sec. The Genius kept me on for 60 sec (my toes couldn't handle being on it for much longer so I stepped off voluntarily).
I hope you also get good use out of them.
These shoes are phenominal. Litterly I found them to be brilliant to climb in.
One note for sizing would be ignore the sizing guide on banana fingers. I like my shoes tight (bouldering) but the suggested size from BF was a 5.5 to 7.5 for different fits. I went for the 6, then a 6.5 finally a 7.5 and this was still to small. Make sure you try these on in a shop before purchasing as the fit is really hard to get right online.
Could not fault the shoes at all, I felt the most confident in my footwork than in any shoe I have had before
Worn these as my main indoor bouldering shoe for the last 6 months. I won't be buying any other shoes for a fair while, they're sublime. They had that "worn in" feel straight out of the box, and are still going strong after 3-4 sessions per week for 6 months. Stretches by half a size over this. Incredibly sensitive shoe, lace/slipper feel is ideal, and means you can dial in exactly the fit you want. Rubber is nice and sticky, downturns last but still smears pretty good (although not its forte). Heel nice and snug, loads of toe rubber, edges a dream. You do have to learn to trust the no edge technology, but once you do it delivers time and time again. Street size 9, got these in 7.5s, could've even gone down to a 7.
Best shoes ever! Don't be put off by the new no edge stuff...it is nice! Especially if you like a sensitive shoe. Love it and will definitely be buying more when the time comes which will probably be a while away as they last a LONG time.
Buy them.