Dragonfly Size 4
The DMM Dragonfly cams are the result of over 2 years of toil, they say the Devil is in the detail and DMM have worked on every aspect of these mini-micro cams to perfect them for both Free and Aid climbing. This is the first range of small versatile cams from DMM for small cracks.
The Dragonfly cams come in 6 sizes, covering placements from 7.8 to 28.3mm. The colour coding fits in with the Dragon cams, so they are quick and easy to identify on your rack. The size 4, 5 and 6 Dragonfly micro cams (purple, silver and blue) overlap with size 1 to 00 Dragons and compliment them perfectly (being slightly smaller so if the blue Dragon is over-cammed the blue Dragonfly will fit precisely), this makes them a great double rack with even more choice of range. The spacing of the range is broader in the large cams and more overlapping in the smaller sizes to give more precise sizing where there is less range. They continue to get smaller going all the way down to the Dragonfly Size 1 (green), the smallest rated climbing cam on the market (at 6kN), the minimum range this cam goes down to is 7.8mm. The weight ranges from 55g- 73g.
The thumb loop has a very ergonomic thumb press and can be clipped into directly, for aiding. It has an extendable 11mm sling, allowing you to extend the placement without reaching for a quickdraw, the sling has a compact bar tack so it can be pulled from either loop to extend it, this is really usually when you are gripped and in an awkward position. The swage is in the centre, so the bar pulls evenly without skewing to one side or the other giving a nice straight even pull. It has a very flexible stem cable, helping with those awkward hard to reach placement or when the crack only takes protection in a specific orientation, preventing walking when moving past the cam. The stem is protected by a Dynatech sheath which is very abrasion resistant. The durable metal trigger bar is ergonomic and slender, making the Dragonfly cam really easy to handle and place and because the trigger bar and bar at the head of the cam for trigger wire attachment are slimmer than the lobes when fully cammed they do not interfere with positioning allowing deep placements.
The cams have an angle of 13.75 degrees, same as the Dragon cams. In test DMM found this angle to have the best combination of range and holding power. The cam lobes are made of a soft aluminium alloy which means they deform very slightly when loaded and bite into the contours of the rock increasing holding power. The head width is the narrowest 4 lobe cam on the market to fit in pin-scars and pockets or short cracks. What is really clever is the design of the lobes that overhang the nuts and spindle heads so all the width is camming surface for maximum contact. This combined with the TripleGrip lobes with a ‘raw alu’ surface means the cam really stays put.
So confident in their new cams DMM put them test at Dyer’s Lookout on the North coast of Devon in the UK with two top athletes James McHaffie and Emma Twyford. The team attempted to onsight the desperately thin E9 Once Upon a Time in the South West. Their fall-holding potential was seriously tested and we can report that the two size 1’s (green) in a horizontal break held perfectly.
12.1-17.9mm placement range, 8kN active strength, 67g.
- 13.75° camming angle - proven optimum combination of holding power, range and performance
–TripleGrip lobes with a ‘raw alu’ surface – improved grip
–Ergonomic thumb loop and trigger – easy to handle
–Flexible stem cable – minimises walking
–Narrow head width – fits small pockets
–Compact trigger bar - allows deep placements
–Colour coding – quick and easy identification
–Extendable 11mm sling with compact stitch pattern – extend either strand
–Complement Dragon Cams – size 4, 5 and 6 Dragonfly Cams overlap with size 00 to 1 Dragons